Sketches of a Life: August 2017

When in North Dalmatia...

I am fortunate enough to be living in Zadar, often flattered as a town-monument, one of the most beautiful Croatian coastal towns, and the 2016 best European travel destination. I am unfortunate, though, to be living in the very heart of the town, struggling day by day with crowds, pigeons, noise, and insufficient parking area. But then again, I am more than fortunate to be able to make random getaways to what I believe are some of the most stunning places within the borders of Croatia, if not beyond. Below is my account of the two islands of the Zadar archipelago I recently got an opportunity to visit and explore.

Saharun / Sakarun beach, Dugi Otok

Regularly pronounced one of the most beautiful lesser-known beaches in the world, Saharun’s been on my to-visit list for a long time. This summer I finally took a day trip to the island and I’m definitely going back as soon as September. Arriving on the island was a venture in itself: my friends and I boarded a ferry from Zadar to Brbinj (return ticket for foot passengers is about €7.50 and takes about 1 h 15 min) and then took a bus heading directly to the beachside (return ticket is about €4.50 and takes about 30 min). The bus ride was really an adventure: overcrowded and smelling of sweat, with the engine moaning, and without a trace of functioning shock-absorbers. But I definitely loved (!) it since it actually added to this primordial feel of the whole trip.

Observing the island landscape, there is little evidence of urban life and tourist activity: not a single protruding tourist resort or facility, just pristine shores, crystally clear sea, endless vine and olive groves, and old stone houses. Getting to the hillside above the Saharun bay, the view spreads onto the intense turquoise-blue sea, contrasted to the white pebbles and green pine trees bounding the shore. The pebbles on the beach, however, turn to fine white sand on the seabed, making the water very shallow far into the bay, and creating wonderful color effects on the water surface. I swear the richness of colour is just stunning!

Although denoted as a low-profile destination, in mid-August the beach was expectedly swarming with swimmers. Moreover, there were a number of sailing boats anchored beyond the swimming area. The busiest period is certainly from noon to 4 p.m., when the one-day visitors have to leave for the latest ferry back to Zadar. This is the main reason why I’m going back and spending a night on the island: I believe the true experience of the site can only be gained after the crowd ceases, outside the peak tourist season. And, although thrilled by the aforementioned bus ride, next time I’m taking my car to explore the picturesque villages nearby.

I do have a few not-so-great things to mention, though: as the beach is exposed to the open sea, there’s a winding belt of washed up, dried out seaweed bounding the sea line, and covering some of the shallowest sea parts. Also, there are unusually lot of bees flying around (particularly around the beach bars, allegedly because they are attracted by the cocktails they serve). I personally don't mind either much, but some might find it a dealbreaker. I most definitely don't.

The island of Pag

The island of Pag is surely one of my favorite places in the world. I get to visit it quite often as it is situated only about 30 km from Zadar and connected to the mainland by a bridge. By far the most unique and astonishing sight gets revealed immediately after crossing this bridge: the sudden change in the scenery compared to the landscapes you pass on your way here is just amazing! The experience could perhaps be best described as something “out-of-this-world”: as soon as you set your foot on the island, you get a feeling like you’ve just landed on a deserted, heavily cratered, karst planet completely void of greenery. The white, bare, rocky shore is like nothing you’ve ever seen before. Indeed, they rightfully call it the Moon island. And the contrast the shore creates with the deep blue sea and sky, and with the prodigious mountain range of Velebit in the background, could leave even the most experienced travellers breathless.

Pag is widely known for many things: the Bura wind, cheese, lamb, and lacework being among the most famous. But I’m a seaholic, and my second favourite thing about Pag, following this moonlike landscape, is the beaches. There are many: popular or hidden, sand or rocky, for relaxation or for partying. And each following is more beautiful than the former. My favourite is the Beritnica beach near Metajna, accessible only on foot and by boat, and famous for the rock formations peaking from the sea and surrounding the beach. A truly incredible sight!

However, this time we decided to visit the Prosika beach, but found it overcrowded (and this is an euphemism). Still, we got lucky as it started raining later in the afternoon, and most people left the beach, providing us with the perfect opportunity to fool around and take some great photos while fighting the rain and the wind. Swimming in the rain on the island of Pag – checked!