A Guide to Milan, Italy

6:39 pm

Several days ago I returned from a short trip to Milan, Italy. It was a perfect getaway for it included great company, nice weather, relaxing summer feel, and not a care in the world. My friends and I spent four days in the city and one at the Borromean islands at Lago Maggiore - which is a must-see, trust me! If you ever get a chance to visit Northern Italy, make sure this destination is on your list.

Now, I could go on forever on all the things we saw and did in Milan, but I'll try to focus on only a few I think are important to highlight. So buckle up, we're taking off! 

TRANSPORT
First thing's first. How come we ended up in Italy? Well, we booked our plane tickets about 2 months prior to the trip: at the time, Volotea offered return tickets from Split to Bergamo for only about €30 (two pieces of hand luggage included)! The flight took about one hour and, in terms of comfort and overall service, we experienced no problems whatsoever.

Getting from the airport to the city of Milan was also rather easy. There are many shuttle buses from the Bergamo airport to the Milan Central Station that cost €5 (one-way ticket) and take about an hour to get to the city. From the central station you can go anyplace within the urban area using the many metro, tram or bus lines. There are 3 types of public transport tickets you can buy from the ticket machines at the stations or from other authorized vendors (bars, tobacconists, newspaper stands): single tickets (€1.5; valid for 90 mins after stamping), one-day tickets (€4.5; valid for 24 hours after stamping) and two-day tickets (€8.25; valid for 48 hours after stamping). I recommend you combine these depending on how long you're staying in Milan.

ACCOMMODATION
Whenever I travel abroad, I rent an apartment rather than book a hotel room. This time we booked an apartment via Airbnb.com in the Guastalla part of the city and immediately fell in love with the neighbourhood. The greatest advantage of this neighbourhood is that it is conviniently situated 7-8 minutes bus ride to the Piazza Duomo and has everything one might need (shops, markets, bars, restaurants), so I would heartily recommend it to anyone. Also, it's quite busy during the day, but quiet during the night.

PLACES TO SEE
Duomo di Milano (terraces, church, archeological area, museum)
The obvious. Don't just take a photo in front of the cathedral. Buy the Duomo Pass (~€13) and explore both the interior and the exterior - it's truly worth it. But bear in mind you have to book the tickets in advance to skip the line at the reception desk. You'll still have to wait shortly in line to get inside. The Duomo sightseeing route starts with climbing the terraces, reaching the rooftop, then going down to the cathedral and the archeological area, and finally to the museum which is housed in a separete building. 
It gets really crowdy at the first terrace as everyone immediately starts taking pictures. I'd advice anyone to skip this one and go to the next: it's basically the same, but you'll manage to see and photograph a lot more.
Of course, the rooftop provides a panoramic view of the city.
Inside the chatedral, you have to have your arms covered. However, as we visited on a 30°C summer day, I obviously wasn't wearing any long sleeves. But I'm not that disrespectful, mind you. Before leaving our place, I had figured wearing a mini skirt must be inappropriate, so I brought a maxi skirt. Still, as it turned out, no one minded my bare legs, so I had to use the skirt to cover my arms. People chuckled.  Well, what do you know!
Right outside of the Duomo is Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the oldest active shopping mall in Italy. I am not going to write a separate section on this place simply because it did not render me amazed. There are all sorts of high-end fashion stores, but also the more affordable ones (Mango, Zara, etc.) that we also have in Croatia, so I didn't bother to waste my precious time on these. I did, however, scavenge the local makeup stores (and leave all my money there). What I did particularly enjoy, though, was the aperitivo with a view that we had on the rooftop of the nearby Rinascente shopping centre (see Food below).
Monumenttal Cemetery of Milan
Visiting a cemetary might not be everyone's cup of tea, but this one is truly unique and definitely more than just a burial ground. They call it an open-air museum and the moment you step inside it becomes obvious why. The graveyard is famous for the abundance of artistic tombs and monuments, and it's like nothing you have ever seen before. A paragraph from a Milan tourist site best describes it, so I'm shamelessly citing it here: "It is as if some of the great sculptors of the 1900s were called together to elaborate and reflect on a particularly demanding theme, to be precise, death." Still, in this place, death is not a sad theme whatsoever. I'd say the place is splendid, glorifying, reverent and even magical.
Warning: the Cemetery is closed on Mondays and public holidays. There is no admission fee but obviously it is expected of visitors to be respectful at all times.

Lago Maggiore (Borromean Islands)
A little over an hour ride from Milan is Stresa, a charming little town situated on the shores of Lago Maggiore. You can easily reach it by train, departing from the Garibaldi station. What no one tells you is that, once you buy a ticket to Stresa (€8), you can board any train heading in that direction and even change trains (the ticket is valid for 4 hours), but you have to be well aware of where these trains change directions, i.e. where you have to board a different train. I'm stressing this because we got late to the train we were supposed to use and, instead of waiting at the station for another two or threee hours, someone told us we could use the ticket to board the train to Arona leaving in 15 minutes, and then switch to another one heading for Stresa. This saved us a lot of time considering that the boats to Isola Bella, our final destionation, cease operating at 6 p.m. Buying the boat tickets in advance is highly recommended.
Isola Bella is an island situated about 400 m from Stresa, connected to the town by regular ferry and private boat services (the tickets cost about €8). It is one of the Borromean islands the name of which stands for "Beautiful Island", and indeed it is. The island is dominated by the lavish Baroque palace with a luxuriant Italian-style garden laid out on ten terraces (the entry ticket to both costs €16). Many parts of the palace are open to visitors, as is the whole garden. The white peacocks that wander over the manicured lawns add their grace to this enchanting spot, and I could not be any happier for seeing this beauty with my own eyes.
FOOD
Oh my God, the food! Milan nearly annuled all my previous two-month effort at losing weight and working on my summer body. Of course we had cappuccinos and croissants for breakfast, of course we had pizzas and risotto Milanese for lunch, and of course we had ravioli and octopus for dinner. And we accompanied all of these with wine and cocktails. 

Some of the places I would definitely recommend are:
  1. CIZ Cantina e Cucina in Porta Monforte - amazing staff, most delicious food and wine
  2. La Pizzeria Nazionale in Brera - nicely decorated space, good atmosphere, great pizza
  3. Ristorante Jinfu (Japanese) in Guastalla - situated in the neighbourhood where we were staying, we had some tasty Asian meals here for cheap (all you can eat type). The Asian food we had elsewhere wasn't nearly as good.
  4. Officine del Gelato in Guastalla - also in our neighbourhood, we had our coffee and breakfast here every morning (and some gelato)
  5. Nik's & Co. near the Central Station - two words: huge muffins!
  6. La Rinascente at the Piazza Duomo - rooftop restaurant with a view on the Duomo, great place for an aperitivo
POSITIVE SURPRISE
The first thing I noticed about Milan was the rich vegetation and the overall cleanness of the city. Many residental buildings are covered in plants and flowes, and numerous even have an inner courtyard filled with flower pots or trees. And it's so pretty!
 NEGATIVE SURPRISE
Call me naive, but I expected the Milanese to be all dressed up, very stilish and wearing highly fashionable clothes. However, witnessing the actual streetstyle left me somewhat disappointed. What I liked was the diversity, uniqueness and individuality of each single passer-by, but what I genuinely disliked was the choice of their clothing items and, above all, - shoes! Of course, I am aware that not every single person I passed by was a Milanese. But still...

For example, I saw at least 50 handsome guys wearing wonderful shirts and classic pants, and then - boom! these:
WTF?! Maybe they're in, I don't know. Maybe they are comfortable, I can't say. But they remind me too much of when I was a child and my parents made me help them dig out the potatoes they had planted in the fields, and I wore a pair of these. So, if you ask me, these belong either at sports courts or farmlands, but on no account combined with a suit or a formal shirt.

Still, on the plus side, I only saw ONE man wearing flip-flops (which I loathe seeing on a male, in case you didn't know).

I know I am crazy and whining, thank you very much :)

But I'd hate to end this beautiful account of a wonderful experience with this horror. So here's another happy shoe / chocolate greeting card from Milan!
Anyway, I hope you'll like this post!
If there's more you'd like to know about Milan, just let me know and I might even write a sequel to this story!

Kisses!

P.S. thanks to my friends Jelena and Lucija for the beautiful photos!

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1 komentari

  1. Thank you, Madam ! Milano ! A very romantic and sophisticated city ! Even the cemetery is romantic...

    ReplyDelete